Good morning everyone!
Want opinions on best leather wights for floggers. from low to high. have some spare hide and thinking of making a few.
Want opinions on best leather wights for floggers. from low to high. have some spare hide and thinking of making a few.
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Re: leather weights for floggers
Thu, January 17, 2008 - 9:54 AMI use two step epoxy and shot in the handle.
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Re: leather weights for floggers
Thu, January 17, 2008 - 10:11 AM
I've heard people going on and on about wanting a flogger that balances HERE (finger usually pointing to somewhere maybe a coupla inches from the top of the handle), or people thinking a huge heavy handle is good to use.
I personally like heavier leathers, long falls, and in general a weighty flogger. But over a bit of time, I've found I really hate those 'wonderfully weighted' flogger handles. For me personally, they totally suck. They wear my wrists out almost immediately. I've begun to suspect my perfect flogger will be with zero shot in the handle, and maybe even a flyweight fiberglass handle under the leather. No handle weight; high falls weight, and balance to be had not by teetertottering it on a finger, but in flight only.
But also have to say, that's subjective as hell. I suspect asking for the best weight, is like asking non-kink people what the best color is (see? I avoided hearing "BLACK" in chorus!)
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Re: leather weights for floggers
Thu, January 17, 2008 - 1:32 PMI think it depends on your style. I also prefer light handles, but I flog hard, with full arm swings.
Some people use more wrist action, in which case I guess a heavy handle would make sense. -
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Re: leather weights for floggers
Thu, January 17, 2008 - 2:39 PMlots of info
www.heartwoodwhips.com/info.htm
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Re: leather weights for floggers
Thu, January 17, 2008 - 4:32 PMGrizzly...
I do not have to fill the handle with shot. Depending on the falls and for whom I am making a flogger for I adjust the way I weight the handles. Notice I said weight...not balance. Weighting the handles can be easily adjusted when using an epoxy and shot mix. You can adjust the amount of shot used and you can fill the handle with something to take up the space in the handle not being displaced by the epoxy and shot.
I just made a matched set of floggers specifically to Florentine with. They are not balanced in the traditional sense because I thought that that would pull on my arms a bit much. Instead I tried weighting mostly at the top of the handle to allow them to swivel in my hands and keep the weight in my hand instead of pulling at my wrists. I find them to be quite comfortable without tiring my arms. My horsehair floggers are also not balanced and only weighted slightly, horse hair being a pretty light fall material.
While I know that there are a lot of folks that judge the quality of a flogger by the ability to balance it at the bottom or fall knot, I personally am not of that mindset. It is all a matter of taste, but for my money when I DO buy a flogger or toy it is never about the weight or balance, it is always about how it feels in my hand.
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Re: leather weights for floggers
Thu, January 17, 2008 - 7:46 PMI have a friend in D. C. who likes very heavy floggers with lots of leather falls. The kind you need both hands to lift and swing. He says it helps to get himself into top headspace when he has to work at it, swinging with both hands and his whole body and working up a sweat. The entire scene becomes more intense. As a bottom, it feels like a small house just landed on you. You have to hold on to a stationary object or be securely tied to one to avoid being knocked to the floor. With all those heavy leather falls, it doesn't hurt very much, but you sure know you've been flogged when he's done. -
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Re: leather weights for floggers
Thu, January 17, 2008 - 10:59 PMUhmmm....yes there are some that are not too much into subtlety and for those folks hitting someone with a house is a pretty easy feat. Then there are those that prefer to work with a bit finesse and can hurt you just as badly without knocking your breathe out or breaking a rib...LOL
Although, for every sort of player there is someone that enjoys the way they do it.
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Re: leather weights for floggers
Sat, January 26, 2008 - 2:44 PMThere is a young lady who used to be in the bay area, who would take a flogger, twist the falls together tightly, and administer a stroke that would knock a large, heavy man just about through a wall. I have to say I miss her.
There are people who love that style, just as there are people who live the lighter styles. A lot of us just don't have the muscles or energy to handle mops (which are leather floggers that are much heavier and fuller than the typical flogger) or to flog with such hard strokes. And I think our bottoms are the poorer for missing that experience.
Domina -
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Absolutely!
Sat, January 26, 2008 - 4:20 PM"...for every sort of player there is someone that enjoys the way they do it."
Vivre le difference!
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Re: leather weights for floggers
Sat, January 26, 2008 - 11:27 AMGrizzley, it all depends on how you use it, etc. All of it is personal preference. I like the weighted ones because the ones where the handle isn't weighted tend to try to pull out of my hands in use, and give me a really painful wrist and elbow. I feel like I'm constantly pulling back on them. I hold floggers loosely, and either in the middle of the handle, or at the final ball. But my grip is loose, so pulling on the flogger will make it feel like it's getting away to me.
People who grip them tighter, don't need as much weight in the handle. And of course, many guys who flog with mops want some counterweight. But it's all what works for you.
Domina -
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Re: leather weights for floggers
Sat, January 26, 2008 - 1:05 PMhahahahaha....mop floggers.....he he he
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Re: leather weights for floggers
Sat, January 26, 2008 - 1:05 PM..giggling...aka assault floggers...
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You may be a mop flogger if
Sat, January 26, 2008 - 1:07 PMyou have a trailer hitch ball instead of a top knot on your flogger.
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Re: leather weights for floggers
Fri, January 25, 2008 - 6:03 PMI've made a few hundred floggers and 7 to 9 ounce oil tanned cowhide is by far the most popular with people I sell to. It's my favorite because depending on how wide and the number of tails, I can get a very wide range of sensation from a single hide. If you want to go light and stingy, oil tanned calfskin, kidskin, or kangaroo are really fun. For light and thuddy, stick with game hides such as antelope, deer, elk, and moose. Although the elk and moose are dense enough for larger thuddy floggers. Horse hide has a wonderful thuddy feel, but it's amazing how many people pick up a funky vibe from it without even knowing what it is. Buffalo is great for a big thud. And if you wanna get really kinky, there's a tannery local to me that latigo tans buffalo. The latigo tannage gives it the density to sting if it's snapped, but is very thuddy.
I once made a pair of mid sized floggers with latigo tanned cowhide tails, and they drew blood when used even moderately hard. So that's not a good choice for most people.
If you're going to do braiding and turks head knots on your floggers, save yourself a pile of grief and only work with kangaroo. Any other type of leather will stretch and loosen up to the point of falling apart. Kangaroo also stretches, but only so far, then it's done. If you pre stretch it before braiding and knotting with it, it'll stay tight for decades.
Of course there are many types of leather I haven't listed, the list represents leathers I have personally worked with. If you use something else, please do come back and share your experience and impressions of it.
Don't let yourself get too carried away with size. Very few people can scene with larger than a 2 pound flogger. If it's not properly balanced, that weight goes down even lower. I have an 8 pound latigo buffalo flogger with a carbon fiber handle just to show off when I vend and only a handful of people have been able to swing it more than a couple times in a row.
Now measure the distance from your armpit to the tip of your middle finger. That is the length of flogger you'll be most accurate with. Your brain is very used to judging that distance. If you vary no more than an inch or two, accuracy with your floggers will be very easy for you to master.
About balance... Everybody says there's a 'perfect' balance spot and they're all different. In my experience, people who use a ball and socket grip and swing in a figure 8 pattern with lots of wrist motion do best with a balance point closer to the end of the handle. If you want to Florentine, you really want high balance points. I've seen people do it otherwise and it's not pretty. Those who grip their hand around the handle and swing in a straight line are more comfortable with a lighter handle.
Instead of shot, I use tubular aluminum handles and pour molten lead into the end. This enables me to use less lead because the lead mass is smaller and therefore it balances closer to the end of the handle. If you decide to work with molten lead and you're not 100% confident of your ability to do it safely, contact me and I'll talk you through it. You can do a lot of damage to yourself. I usually go to Metal Supermarket for my handle pieces, and they even cut the tubing to length for me. It costs a couple dollars per flogger, but it's worth the money to not have to cut it all up myself. .062 wall tubing is perfect. A thicker wall doesn't hurt, but don't go any thinner as it'll be too easy to dent. -
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Re: leather weights for floggers
Sat, January 26, 2008 - 11:48 AMthanks for that post i learned something today
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Re: leather weights for floggers
Fri, February 1, 2008 - 6:01 AMNick,
Thank you. This is what I was looking for. I have some scrap leathers from other projects and hate to have it go to waste. To everyone else thank you for the input, but truly was only looking for leather weights. Excellent discussion overall!
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